Paper, glue and albums

Use a dry, acid-free adhesive that's sold as photo safe, such as a tape runner, double-sided photo tape or glue dots. They don't release any moisture, so the photo won't ripple and nothing will seep through.

You don't need to cover the whole back. A strip or dot in each corner and one in the middle will hold the photo firmly. If you want to be able to remove it later, for example with old or one-of-a-kind prints, use photo corners. That way no glue touches the photo itself. It's best not to use liquid craft glue or ordinary sticky tape on photos.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

Acid-free means that paper or glue has a neutral pH (around 7), so it won't damage your photos and pages over time. Lignin-free means that lignin, a substance found in wood, has been removed from the paper pulp. Over time, lignin makes paper acidic, yellow and brittle. Just think of an old newspaper.

On glue and materials you'll also see 'photo safe' and 'archival quality'. These terms aren't legally protected. The most reliable products are those that have passed the PAT, an official test that checks whether a material damages photos. For albums that need to last a long time, it's worth looking out for these labels. For a journal you use yourself, it matters less.

Read also: Acid-free and lignin-free: what it means and when it matters

Cardstock is sturdy card, usually in a single colour. You use it as the base for your page, to mat photos and for die cuts. Patterned paper is thinner paper with a print, such as flowers, checks or text. It's meant for backgrounds and decorative layers.

Patterned paper is printed on one side or both. Double-sided is handy, because the back usually goes with the front and you can use offcuts on either side. A popular combination is cardstock as a sturdy base with patterned paper on top. The name doesn't tell you everything, by the way: some patterned paper is almost as sturdy as thin card, while other paper is much thinner. So check the weight on the packaging.

Read also: Choosing paper: cardstock, patterned paper and paper weight

As a rule of thumb: the more the paper has to carry, the heavier it needs to be.

• 80 to 120 gsm: journaling, scrap notes, inserts and small details
• 120 to 200 gsm: patterned paper, layers and photo mats
• 200 to 250 gsm: cardstock for cards and sturdy elements
• 250 gsm and above: the base of an album page, covers and pages with lots of embellishments

For a 30 x 30 cm page with lots of layers, go for slightly heavier paper, so the page doesn't bend when you turn it in the album. If you're just starting out, cardstock of around 200 to 250 gsm and a pad of medium-weight patterned paper will get you off to a good start.

Read also: Choosing paper: cardstock, patterned paper and paper weight

Use as little wet glue as possible, or choose a dry adhesive. Paper ripples because of moisture: the fibres expand and don't shrink back neatly as they dry.

• For paper on paper, use a tape runner, double-sided tape or adhesive sheets
• If you do use liquid glue, spread a thin layer right up to the edges instead of a thick blob
• Choose thicker paper, as it warps less than thin paper
• Lay thin sheets with the same grain direction as the base
• After sticking, put the page under a stack of books for a few hours, with a sheet of baking paper in between

Read also: Paper that doesn't buckle with glue, paint and water

Scrapbook paper is usually square and sold in inches:

• 30.5 x 30.5 cm (12 x 12 inch): the standard size for album pages
• 20.3 x 20.3 cm (8 x 8 inch): for smaller albums
• 15.2 x 15.2 cm (6 x 6 inch): often sold as a pad, handy for cards, mini albums and small layers

You'll also find paper in A4 and A5, mostly cardstock and printable paper. Buy paper that suits what you're making. You can cut smaller pieces from a 30 x 30 cm sheet, but not the other way round. For cards and journals, a 15 x 15 cm pad is often better value and easier to handle.

Read also: Which album size to choose for your first scrapbook

No, choose the size that suits what you want to make. 30 x 30 cm (12 x 12 inch) is the standard size. It gives you the most choice in paper and albums, and each page has room for several photos and lots of decoration. An album like that does take up more space and needs more material per page.

A4 albums are more economical, fit easily on a bookshelf and it's easy to find sleeves for them. 20 x 20 cm (8 x 8 inch) and smaller works well for a holiday, a gift or if you'd rather finish a page quickly. Lots of scrappers use several sizes side by side.

Read also: Which album size to choose for your first scrapbook

The most common kinds are post-bound albums, ring binders, strap-hinge albums and bound albums. The main difference is how easily you can add pages.

• Post-bound album: the pages sit between screw posts that you can extend. Two facing pages lie close together, which is lovely for a spread
• Ring binder: you can swap pages without any tools. D-rings keep the pages straighter than round rings, but the middle lies less flat
• Strap-hinge: the pages are held together with plastic straps and open flat
• Bound album: fixed pages, so you can't add or move anything. Because there are no sleeves, you can work thicker

If your album is still growing, choose a post-bound album or a ring binder.

Read also: Post bound, ring binder or self-adhesive: which album to choose

Avoid glue that is acidic, contains a lot of moisture or comes loose over time.

• School glue and children's glue: often not acid-free and washable, so they don't last long and can leave stains
• Rubber cement: strong, but usually acidic, messy and prone to discolouring
• A glue gun: the heat can damage photos and it leaves lumps
• Ordinary sticky tape: yellows, dries out and comes unstuck
• Staples and paper clips directly on photos

For paper, photos and light decoration, acid-free dry adhesive, an acid-free glue stick or liquid paper glue are the safe choice. For a journal that doesn't need to last for decades, you can be less strict.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

Wet adhesive is liquid or spreadable, such as liquid glue, glue pens, paste and spray adhesive. Dry adhesive comes ready on a carrier, as with tape runners, double-sided tape, glue dots, foam pads and adhesive sheets.

Wet glue bonds strongly, even on rough or uneven surfaces, and you can still shift things a little before it dries. The downside is that it needs to dry and that too much glue makes paper ripple. Dry adhesive sticks straight away, isn't messy and doesn't release moisture. That's why dry adhesive is usually the best choice for photos and paper on paper. Use wet glue for textured pieces, small details and heavier decoration.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

Use photo corners when you want to be able to take a photo out again later, or when you'd rather not put any glue on it at all. The photo is held only by its corners, so you can slide it out without damaging anything.

They're ideal for old, one-of-a-kind or precious photos, and for cards or documents you might still want to show or send. There are self-adhesive paper corners and clear plastic ones. For plastic, choose polyester or polypropylene, not PVC. One downside is that sticking them on takes longer, and the middle of large photos can bulge slightly.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

For heavier or uneven decoration, such as metal charms, buttons, plastic figures and chipboard, liquid craft glue with a fine nozzle works best. It fills the gaps on the back and bonds even when the contact area is small.

Use only a little, otherwise the glue squeezes out from underneath and can discolour the paper. Let the page dry flat. Glue dots are a quick, dry alternative for buttons and paper flowers. For really heavy pieces, it helps to make the page itself sturdy with heavy cardstock, so it doesn't bend.

Read also: How to choose and place embellishments without the clutter

Yes, for paper on paper, many scrappers find a tape runner the handiest adhesive. You roll a thin strip of dry adhesive out of a dispenser, with no moisture, mess or drying time.

There are permanent and repositionable versions. With the latter you can still shift things a little. Many dispensers are refillable, which is cheaper than buying a new one each time. A tape runner doesn't hold heavy or domed embellishments as well; for those you need liquid glue or glue dots. Double-sided tape on a roll is fine too, although it's harder to control and sticks fast as soon as you press it down.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

Gsm (g/m²), also called grammage, is the weight of one square metre of paper in grams. The higher the number, the thicker and stiffer the paper usually is.

For comparison: printer paper usually weighs 80 gsm, a postcard around 250 to 300 gsm, and cardstock is often between 200 and 300 gsm. American paper sometimes gives the weight in lb (pounds): 65 lb cover is about 175 gsm, 80 lb cover about 216 gsm. Weight doesn't tell you everything about thickness, as dense paper can be thinner at the same weight. If the packaging doesn't say, compare the paper with paper you know.

Read also: Choosing paper: cardstock, patterned paper and paper weight

Printer paper is too thin as the base of a page, but it's fine for journaling, rough drafts, printed text and collages. 80 gsm printer paper creases quickly, ripples with glue, tears easily and can't carry layers or embellishments.

If you want to use a print, stick it onto cardstock to make it sturdier. A lot of office paper is acid-free these days, but not always. For an album that needs to last, check the packaging. For the base of your page, it's better to choose cardstock of at least 200 gsm.

Read also: Choosing paper: cardstock, patterned paper and paper weight

For the card itself, use cardstock of about 220 to 250 gsm. That's sturdy enough to stand up and it folds neatly if you score it first.

If you're making cards with lots of layers or heavy decoration, choose heavier card of 270 to 300 gsm. Use patterned paper as a decorative layer on top. Printer paper is too thin as a base, but it's fine as an insert to write on. For crisp stamped images, smooth card works better than heavily textured card. If you write with ink, matt paper is nicer than glossy.

Read also: How to make your own cards with your scrapbooking supplies

For paper on paper and for journals, an acid-free glue stick is fine. For albums that need to last, dry adhesive is more reliable. A glue stick is cheap and easy, but it contains some moisture and holds less well over time, especially on smooth or glossy paper.

Spread a thin layer right up to the edges and press it down well. For a photo, put just a little glue on the corners and a tiny bit in the middle, so no lumps form. Don't use a washable children's glue stick. Also be careful with thin paper, like that in some planners: the moisture can make the ink on the other side bleed.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

Foam pads are double-sided adhesive foam squares or strips that lift an element a few millimetres. They give you depth and shadow, for example under a title, a die cut or a photo mat. They come in different thicknesses and you can stack them too.

Glue dots are small, very strong dots of adhesive on a roll. They're ideal for things ordinary glue struggles to hold, such as buttons, paper flowers, ribbon and chipboard. There are flat dots and thicker versions that lift the element slightly. Both are dry adhesives, so they don't let any moisture soak into your paper.

Read also: Layers and depth on your scrapbook page

Choose protectors made of polypropylene (PP), polyethylene (PE) or polyester, as these are chemically stable. Avoid PVC (vinyl). Over time it releases substances that can discolour photos and make them stick to the sleeve. Good protectors are often labelled PVC-free or acid-free.

Protectors shield your pages from fingerprints, marks and dust, and they catch any embellishments that come loose. Clear protectors make colours stand out nicely; matt (non-glare) protectors reflect less. With ring binders, make sure the rings don't crease the protectors.

Read also: Page protectors: which plastic is safe for your photos

Use watercolour paper or mixed media paper. Ordinary cardstock is made for dry work and will ripple, pill or even tear with a lot of water.

• Watercolour paper of about 300 gsm absorbs water well and stays fairly flat
• Watercolour paper with cotton, or 100 per cent cotton, is the sturdiest if you work very wet
• Mixed media paper of about 160 to 300 gsm is suitable for paint, ink and glue
• If you're working in an ordinary notebook or journal, prime the page with gesso first and use as little water as possible

The heavier the paper, the less it warps.

Read also: Paper that doesn't buckle with glue, paint and water

Use a glue pen with a fine tip, or apply the glue with a toothpick. That way glue only goes where it's needed and nothing squeezes out from under the edge.

• Put a drop of glue on a piece of plastic and pick up a little at a time with a toothpick
• Pick up the piece with tweezers, so your fingers don't get covered in glue
• If you're going to cut lots of small die cuts, first stick a double-sided adhesive sheet to the back of the paper and then die cut. Every piece will be sticky straight away

For sequins and rhinestones, a glue pen works best.

Put it under heavy books for a while, with a sheet of baking paper or clean paper on both sides. The longer, the better: a night or a few days often does the trick.

If paper is badly warped, for example from watercolour, you can carefully iron it. Place it between two slightly damp tea towels, iron on a low to medium setting without steam, turn it over and repeat. Then put it back under the books. Don't do this if there are photos, plastic, embossing or glitter on it, as the heat can melt or damage them. Prevention is easier: choose thicker paper and use less wet glue.

Read also: Paper that doesn't buckle with glue, paint and water

Dental floss often does the job: slide it behind the photo or paper and carefully saw back and forth through the layer of adhesive. This works especially well with dry adhesive from a tape runner.

If it's stuck fast, soften the glue first with a hairdryer and pull it off while it's still warm. Be careful with photos, as they can't take much heat. For glue residue, there's a special adhesive eraser made of crepe rubber. Wipe away fresh white glue with a damp cloth. If a mark or small tear is left behind, cover it with an embellishment or a piece of paper.

Read also: How to fix a mistake on your scrapbook page

A paper pad is a pad of patterned paper sheets with colours and patterns that go together. A collection goes further: it often includes stickers, die cuts, chipboard and cardstock too, which all work together as a set.

It's especially handy when you're just starting out. The big advantage is that you don't have to work out which colours and patterns go together yourself, and your pages automatically look calmer. 15 x 15 cm pads are good value for cards and small projects. You don't have to stick to them: you can easily combine paper from different collections, as long as you let a few colours come back.

Read also: Choosing paper: cardstock, patterned paper and paper weight

Not for photos you want to keep for a long time. Classic self-adhesive albums, also known as magnetic albums, have a layer of adhesive with a plastic film over it. Over the years that adhesive turns yellow and acidic, photos get stuck fast and the film can discolour them.

They are flexible, though: you can arrange photos, cuttings and notes freely. If you want that freedom without the risks, choose an album with acid-free loose pages and use photo corners or photo-safe adhesive. If your photos are already in one of these old albums, take them out carefully, and sooner rather than later.

Read also: Post bound, ring binder or self-adhesive: which album to choose

Spray adhesive is handy for large areas, such as a big sheet of paper or a large print. It gives a thin, even layer and hardly makes paper ripple. For small pieces and everyday use, it's a lot of fuss.

Do keep a few things in mind. Work in a well-ventilated room and spray inside a cardboard box, so the mist doesn't land on your table. Choose an acid-free version if the work is going into an album. There's permanent and repositionable spray adhesive. With permanent spray adhesive, things stick straight away, so put it down right first time.

Read also: Which glue to use for photos, paper and embellishments

Core dyed, or solid core, means that cardstock is coloured all the way through, not just on the surface. So if you tear it, sand it or emboss it, you won't see a white core.

That's handy if you want to tear edges or work the paper with an embossing folder: the colour stays even. With ordinary coloured cardstock, white shows through when you tear or sand the edge. That's not a problem. Many scrappers use it on purpose for a distressed or vintage look.

Read also: Scrapbooking terms explained, from brads to vellum

The grain is the direction in which most of the fibres in the paper run. Paper folds and tears more neatly along the grain. Against it, you're more likely to get a ragged tear or a cracked fold.

Here's how to find the grain: gently bend the sheet in both directions. The direction in which it gives most easily is the grain. You can also tear a small piece, as it tears straighter along the grain. If you're working with wet glue, stick two sheets together with the grain running the same way. Paper expands mainly across the fibres when it gets damp, so this way it ripples less.

Read also: Paper that doesn't buckle with glue, paint and water

These are terms you'll often come across with paper and card:

• Vellum: translucent paper, lovely for layers, titles and journaling over a photo. Wet glue shows through, so use brads or staples, or put the glue in places you'll cover later
• Kraft paper: brown, unbleached paper or card with a natural look. It isn't always acid-free, so check this if it's going to touch photos
• Chipboard: thick, pressed board. Among scrappers it's best known as die-cut shapes and letters to stick on
• Bristol board: smooth white card that's often used as a base for cards

Read also: Scrapbooking terms explained, from brads to vellum