How to clean and store stamps so they last for years

A good stamp lasts for years if you look after it a little. Ink drying in the fine lines, dust on a clear stamp or an ink pad that dries out: those are the things that make a print patchy. Luckily, the cleaning itself is simple. It's mostly about doing things in the right order, and a few things you're better off not doing.

Stamp off first

Before you get anything wet, stamp off the leftover ink on a sheet of scrap paper. Two or three presses is enough, until hardly anything comes off. That removes most of the ink and saves you cleaning. Keep those scrap sheets, because sometimes they're pretty enough to use as a background.

Then clean your stamp straight away if you can, while the ink is still wet. Dried ink sticks much more firmly in the grooves. It's especially worth it with fine, detailed stamps.

If you're going to use the stamp again soon with the same colour, you don't need to clean it every time. Scrubbing too often and too hard wears a stamp out too.

Cleaning clear stamps and rubber stamps

Clear stamps are the see-through stamps made of photopolymer or silicone that you stick onto an acrylic block. Rubber stamps are often mounted on wood or foam. The basics are the same for both:

1. Stamp off on scrap paper.
2. Rinse the stamp under lukewarm water with a drop of washing-up liquid.
3. Rub gently through the lines with your fingertips or a soft toothbrush.
4. Rinse and pat dry with a lint-free cotton cloth.
5. Let it dry completely before you put it away.

Don't use kitchen roll or toilet paper. They leave little fibres behind, and those cling to clear stamps in particular.

A wood-mounted stamp shouldn't sit in water. The wood can swell or come away from the rubber. Wipe it with a damp cloth and let it dry properly.

Lots of scrappers use a cleaning pad: a spongy mat, or a chamois cloth, that you wet and rub the stamp over. The ink comes out of the grooves, and the pad soaks up the colour so it doesn't end up on your fingers or other stamps. A bit of putty rubber also works surprisingly well for getting old ink out of fine details.

Permanent and sticky ink

Not every ink comes off with water. Fast-drying permanent ink, made for glossy paper, acetate or fabric, needs a special stamp cleaner that goes with that kind of ink. Try not to use it over and over on soft clear stamps, because permanent ink and its cleaner can damage the material over time. For clear stamps, choose a cleaner made for clear stamps if you need one.

Embossing ink, which stays tacky for a long time, is easiest to remove right after use.

Alcohol isn't a good idea for rubber. It can dry the rubber out and make it brittle.

Do homemade cleaners and baby wipes work

Yes, up to a point. A homemade cleaner in a spray bottle is cheap and fine for ordinary water-based ink. Most recipes are a variation on the same thing:

• distilled water as the base
• a small splash of mild soap, such as baby shampoo or washing-up liquid
• optionally a few drops of glycerine, which is said to keep the rubber supple

Spray it on the stamp, rub it over a cloth or cleaning pad and let it dry. Scrappers who've done this for years say their stamps stay in good shape. Whether glycerine really makes a difference in the long run, nobody knows for sure. For permanent ink, a mixture like this usually isn't strong enough.

Baby wipes are handy in between, for example when you're switching colours quickly. Choose wipes without alcohol and without lotion, and don't use them as your only method. After a few rounds of wipes, a wash with soap and water is good for getting out the last bits and any film.

Stained clear stamps: does it matter

No. Many inks leave a light tint in a clear stamp, especially dark shades and some pigment inks. That's not dirt but a stain in the material, and it doesn't affect the print. You can happily use the stamp with another colour afterwards, as long as it's clean.

What you will notice: a stained stamp is a bit harder to position, because you can't see through the design as well. If you want to keep staining to a minimum, clean the stamp straight after use. You usually won't get it completely clear again.

Clear stamps that won't stick any more

A clear stamp clings to your acrylic block because of the stamp material itself, not a layer of glue. If it won't stick any more, there's usually dust, lint, ink residue or grease from your fingers on it.

• Wash the stamp with lukewarm water and a drop of washing-up liquid, and let it air dry.
• Clean the acrylic block too. A greasy or dusty block won't hold anything.
• Check your block for scratches. That's why it's best not to store blocks loose among sharp things.
• Still not working? Dampen the stamp very slightly before putting it on the block. That helps for a while.

Hold clear stamps by the edges, not by the sticky side. That way they stay clean for longer.

Storing stamps in folders, boxes or drawers

The most important rule for clear stamps: dark, cool and flat. They're plastic stamps, and sunlight and heat will eventually turn them yellow, brittle or warped. So a windowsill or a sunny shelf isn't a good spot.

After use, put clear stamps back on the clear backing sheet they came on. That keeps the dust off and you can see straight away if one is missing. Folders and pockets for storing them come in all sorts of shapes:

• Pocket sleeves in a ring binder: you flip through them like an album, and they take up little space. A photo sleeve with four pockets keeps small loose stamps together.
• Flat boxes or DVD cases: sturdy and easy to stack.
• Drawers: handy for wood-mounted rubber stamps, which are better stood upright or laid flat side by side than piled up.

Sort by theme, such as flowers, sentiments, backgrounds and holidays. Or by brand and then by theme, if you know which set you're looking for. Keep stamps with matching dies together in the same pocket. A tab or a print of the stamps on the front of the folder helps you find things without opening everything.

Loose unmounted rubber stamps can go on cling foam. That takes up less space than wooden blocks, but only if your stamps are clean, otherwise the foam won't grip any more.

Storing and re-inking ink pads

Store ink pads flat, and check what the brand recommends. Pigment pads are usually stored ink side up, while some dye inks, such as Distress Ink, are stored upside down so the ink stays at the surface. On their side, the ink can sink to one end or dry out, and then you get uneven or faint prints. Always close the lid properly after use, and keep them out of the sun.

If your prints come out pale or patchy, the pad is dry. Top it up with re-inker of the same brand and colour:

1. Add a few drops spread across the pad, not all in one place.
2. Work the ink in with the back of a teaspoon or the cap of the bottle.
3. Let it soak in for a moment and do a test print.
4. Too pale? Add a few more drops. Better a little twice than too much once.

An overfilled pad gives thick, blotchy prints and can start to leak. With re-inkers you can also fill blank ink pads yourself, in your own colours.

Keep your ink pads close to your stamps and set aside a fixed spot for your cleaning things. Then tidying up takes a minute, and everything is ready for next time.