Stamping for beginners: how to get a crisp impression

A stamp seems like the simplest tool on your table: ink it, press, done. Yet the first impression is often too faint, patchy or just a little crooked. That's rarely your fault. With the right stamp, an acrylic block and a few fixed habits, your impression will be crisp and even.

Clear stamps, rubber and wood

There are roughly three kinds of stamps, and each needs a slightly different approach.

Clear stamps are see-through, flexible stamps made of silicone or photopolymer. They stick to a smooth acrylic block on their own, and you can see exactly where the design will land. They usually come with several stamps on one sheet, and after use you stick them back on it. They're often cheaper than other stamps, and if there's a bit you don't want, you simply cut it off.

Rubber stamps are harder and heavier. You'll come across them in three forms:

• Cling stamps: rubber with a tacky foam layer on the back, so you can use them on an acrylic block.
• Unmounted rubber: loose rubber with no backing. This is the cheapest form, but you have to trim the stamps yourself and fix them in place, for example with tape on an acrylic block. With a full order, expect quite a lot of cutting.
• Wood-mounted rubber: see below.

Wooden stamps are rubber stamps fixed to a wooden block. They sit firmly in your hand and last a long time. The downside is that they're more expensive, take up a lot of space and you can't see where you're stamping. Look at the image of the design on the top if there is one, and turn the block so that the image is straight.

There are also foam stamps: spongy stamps for bolder designs, which you can use with acrylic paint too.

Why you use an acrylic block

An acrylic block is a clear plastic block that clear stamps and cling stamps stick to. The biggest advantage is that you can see through it, so you know exactly where you're placing the design. That helps especially with text, borders and designs you stamp on top of each other.

With one block you can use dozens of stamps, so it saves space on your shelf. Many blocks have grid lines. Line your stamp up along one of those and it's straight straight away.

Choose a block that's just slightly bigger than your stamp. On a block that's too big, you easily press unevenly, and the edges can get in the way. A small square block and a long block for text are enough to start with.

By the way, the grip comes from the stamp, not the block. If a stamp won't stay put, there's usually dust, fluff or old ink on it. Wash the stamp and block with lukewarm water and a little washing-up liquid. A well-used stamp often sticks better again for a while if you dampen it slightly. Don't store your blocks loose among sharp things, because scratches weaken the grip.

What else to put on your table

• A flat craft mat or cutting mat, so you have an even surface and your table stays clean.
• Smooth paper for fine details. Textured paper, such as watercolour paper, gives a rougher impression. Sturdy cardstock (thick, firm paper) buckles less and lets the ink bleed less.
• One black ink pad that's suitable for fine lines. You can read more about the different types of ink in our article on stamping ink.
• A sheet of scrap paper for test prints.

How to make a crisp impression

1. Place the stamp, clean and dry, on the acrylic block, straight along a grid line.
2. Apply the ink with a few light taps on the pad. Don't press the stamp hard into it, or the ink will run into the open parts of the design. With a large stamp, turn it around: lay the stamp design side up and tap the pad onto it.
3. Hold the stamp at an angle to the light for a moment. If the whole design is shiny, the ink is everywhere.
4. Bring the stamp straight down onto the paper. Not one side first and then the other.
5. Press firmly and evenly with both hands over the whole block. No sliding, no rocking. Pressing too hard isn't good either: the stamp distorts and the edges print too.
6. Lift the stamp straight up.
7. Let the ink dry before you go over it with your hand or a ruler.

Always do a test print on scrap paper first, especially with a new stamp or a different kind of paper.

Why an impression turns out patchy or incomplete

Almost every failed impression comes down to a handful of causes.

• Too faint or patchy: there's too little ink on the stamp, the pad has dried out or you applied the ink unevenly. Tap more often and more lightly, and replace a pad that no longer gives colour.
• White spots in large solid areas: you're working on a surface that's too hard, or the paper has too much texture. A thin foam mat or a few sheets of paper under your work often help. You can also stamp a second time with a stamping tool.
• Thick, blurred lines: too much ink, too much pressure, or paper that soaks up the ink. Use less ink and smoother paper.
• Double edges or a shadow: the stamp slipped or you rocked it. Put it down straight and lift it straight up.
• An edge prints too: the edge of the stamp or the foam has picked up ink. Tap more carefully and trim clear stamps closely around the design.
• Ink beads up on the stamp: you mostly see this with new clear stamps. Wash the stamp first with lukewarm water and washing-up liquid and let it dry well.
• Slightly crooked: line your stamp up with the grid on the block, or use a stamping tool.

A stamp with a cheerful design can come out a bit too heavy now and then. On a page, it's less noticeable than you think.

Straight and in the same spot with a stamping tool

A stamping tool is a kind of folder with a hinged lid. You place the paper in a corner and hold it in place, often with magnets. You lay the stamp design side down on the paper. Close the lid and the stamp sticks to the inside. Then you open the lid, apply ink and close it again.

That way the stamp lands in exactly the same spot every time. That has a few big advantages:

• If your impression isn't quite complete, you re-ink and simply stamp again.
• You can use layering stamps: sets where you stamp a design in several colours on top of each other.
• If you're making a stack of cards or invitations, it goes a lot faster.
• The pressure is spread over the whole design, which gives a crisp impression.

They come in different sizes, including larger ones for 30.5 x 30.5 cm (12 x 12 inch) pages. Note that not every model works with rubber stamps. Some are only for clear stamps; with others you need to remove the foam mat that comes with it for rubber.

If you don't have a stamping tool (yet), you can get a long way with the grid lines on your block, a light pencil line you rub out later, or a ruler you hold against the block as a guide.

Which stamps to buy first

It's tempting to buy everything that looks nice. Better to start with a few sets you'll use on almost every page.

• Clear stamps: they're affordable, you can see what you're doing and you only need a few blocks.
• A set of short sentiments, such as dates, words like ‘summer’ or ‘together’ and little phrases. They fit on lots of pages.
• An alphabet set for short words and accents.
• A handful of small designs, such as little flowers, stars, arrows and dots, to brighten up a corner or a bit of journaling.
• A date stamp if you also keep a planner or journal.

To start with, choose designs with clear lines and small solid areas. Large solid areas and very fine details are harder to get even. A background stamp or repeating pattern can come later. And choose what suits your own pages, not what happens to be on offer.

After stamping

Clean your stamp straight away, before the ink dries. First stamp a few times on scrap paper until almost nothing comes off, then wipe it with a damp cloth. Don't use kitchen roll, as it leaves fluff behind. A clear stamp that picks up some colour is simply well used, not broken.

Store clear stamps on their sheet, out of the sun and away from heat. You can read more about cleaning and storing in our article on cleaning and storing stamps.